A Japanese Trilogy

The first thing to say is that is, potentially, the ultimate Aman-junkies itinerary. We've planned it as thus previously and we will many times again - because it works perfectly. You obviously stay in the new AMAN KYOTO, and then instead of heading on to Hakone you instead head to remote AMANEMU is remote Ise Shimo National Park. This resort operates more like a destination-spa, though the Amanemu's location on the hills above Ago Bay is also close to the holy Shinto site of Ise Grand Shrine. The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails can also be visited, along with the Ama female freedivers of Ago Bay who collect shellfish, seaweed and sea urchins. You would then head to the AMAN TOKYO - their only truly urban resort and, quite possibly, the best hotel in the world (so say 'me').

The layout of Kyoto is most unusual for Japan, because in this instance the main railway station is not the hub around which everything revolves. Instead, a couple of miles further north are the districts of Gion, Shijo, Higashiyama, Karasuma and this is where we prefer to base our clients - neighbourhoods in which you can walk out the door and soak up the atmosphere of old Japan, close to the temples, shrines, geisha districts and markets. However, there are many hotels down by the station, indeed most, and tour operators without a clue would have you stay here. In Kyoto - not a high-rise city - you can stay in either in a ryokan, and Kyoto is home to Japan's most historic and finest, or in a stylish hotel, often with its own landscaped gardens. Or both. All that we insist on is that where you stay has a relationship with its surroundings - in style, in decor, in its sense of hospitality. This is Kyoto after all and every hotel or ryokan ought to have its essential character running through its veins.

However many days we have allocated to Kyoto in your itinerary, it won't be enough. There is simply so much to see and do in Kyoto and the more time to have to linger, the more will be revealed. And because there are so many 'must-see' temples, shrines and gardens we strongly suggest that we throw away the rule book and instead commit to explore at your own pace, not worrying unduly about missing any one 'big ticket' sight. Consider turning left when everyone else turns right and our local guides know where, when and why you should do this. In Kyoto, they add so much. Here more than anywhere else in Japan does local insight, knowledge and personal relationships pay more dividend.  And your sightseeing should not be limited to only Kyoto - use the city as a base from which to explore the region. Arashiyama, Nara, Hikone and even Osaka itself and all with day-tripable distance.

Hakone, and nearby Lake Kawaguchiko are in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park - an area of outstanding natural beauty bubbling with thermal activity. Therefore, these are places in which to stay in an ryokan - you've got very little choice really, as this is what 90% of the accommodation consists of. But there are large and small ryokans, modern and traditional, basic and uber-luxury, full board and room only...etc. However, we have a handful of favourites, chosen for their location, intimacy, onsen baths and kaiseki cuisine. Through the day(s) you spend in Hakone you can, and should, simply relax in your ryokan, but can also explore the area by scenic railway, lake boat, funicular railway, cable car and walking trails - all under the shadow of Mount Fuji. We would recommend that you spend one afternoon at Chōkoku No Mori Bijutsukan - the Hakone Open Air Museum, which offers a harmonic balance of nature and art by exhibiting various sculptures on its grounds (Henry Moores) in combination with views of the surrounding valley and mountains.

Tokyo is not the place for traditional ryokans or even boutique hotels - we'll tick these boxes elsewhere on your travels in Japan. This is a high-rise city and many of the luxury hotels occupy the top floors of imposing skyscrapers,  with amazing views across the urban sprawl. Therefore, the most important decision we need to consider is 'where?' - which district of Tokyo you choose to base yourself in making all the difference. We often prefer to base our guests over in the west of the city, Shinjuku or Shibuya, because these are the main entertainment districts, full of restaurants, bars and the neon-drenched nightlife synonymous with the capital. Alternatively, the hotels closer to Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace in east Tokyo  - Nihombashi - are well-located in an upmarket district, with some amazing shopping streets and many of the city's major sights close by. There are many luxury hotels in Shinagawa and Shiodome - several of them very nice - be we do tend to avoid these properties because...well, they are 'nothing' neighbourhoods, very business-orientated and lacking in character. 

It is perfectly possible to explore Tokyo by yourself - most of the signs are now in English, the overground and subway rail system is second-to-none and a decent guide book will tell you much of what you need to know. We also publish our own pragmatic self-touring notes, which also include many personal recommendations. But to have a local guide accompany you undoubtedly elevates the experience, at the very least getting you between the 'must-see' sights more efficiently or - more importantly -  explaining, adding context and showing you lesser-visited neighbourhoods which will no doubt form your most cherished memories of the capital. We can hire commuter bikes to explore the backstreets or head out of the city for day trips to Nikko, Hakone, Mount Fuji or Kamakura. Or perhaps you'd prefer that we weight the itinerary with 'experiences' as opposed to 'sights', such as cookery classes, sunset helicopter rides or visiting a sumo stable? In the evenings, head out with your guide to a buzzing 'locals' izakaya or yakitori stand, or to see show in the kabuki theatre...or robot café. It's Tokyo - the world's most exciting city and the possibilities are limitless!