ZEN & the art of travel

Early September is hot, but also quiet...which makes it quite wonderful. Then, as the month progresses and Japan heads into Autumn-proper, the sun remains a constant in the sky though its intensity diminishes. Temperatures tend to bounce around the mid-20's, which as far as we are concerned is just about perfect and most especially welcome in the cities.

However, its Japan's lush interior which is the star of the show during Autumn, as leaves turn fiery red or dazzling orange, the maples a startling crimson. This natural show in Japan easily transcends New England's famous 'Fall Colours' every year, in our not-so-humble opinion!

These dazzling colours are everywhere, be it the landscaped gardens of Kanazawa and Okayama, or viewed through a train carriage window in Hakone National Park, whilst hiking through the Japanese Alps, or getting off the beaten-track staying in a remote countryside ryokan in Tohoku or simply when strolling through the quiet back streets of Kyoto. And the crisper, drier weather and cooler evenings make for photograph opportunities aplenty amidst the vivid bursts of autumn colours. 

For the more intrepid, and for sun-worshippers, this is a great time to explore many of Japan's outlying islands, be it in the tropical south and also in the more temperate north. Wherever you are, Autumn's best experience is also it's easiest to organise - let's book you in to a remote luxury ryokan (Japanese Inn), one with a rotenburo (outdoor onsen bath) overlooking the multi-coloured koyo (autumn leaves).

So...cards on the table, if you were to poll long-term residents of Japan, then they would overwhelmingly tell you that Autumn is the best season during which to visit Japan. It's looking its best, the temperature is perfect, it's dry and there are no major national holidays or 'events' to factor in, creating crowds (read; Cherry Blossom season). We won't argue - it may be a truism that most countries look at their best during the height of Autumn yet in Japan, perhaps, this is more overwhelmingly conspicuous than anywhere else. 

There are so many reasons to visit Japan during the winter months. From snowy castle landscapes and glittering lamp-lit shrines to warm sake and piping hot bowls of ramen in bustling restaurants, Japan takes on a different, more excitable air. Who doesn’t enjoy startling clear-blue dry skies, crisp fresh air, and an almost total absence of tourists? And if the freezing frightens you, then do remember the ambient temperate in the more sheltered eastern and southern regions, where you'll find Kyoto, Hiroshima and Nara, is actually quite mild. Indeed, Tokyo rarely get 'that' cold. Japan is largely split in two by the winter weather - the north and west of the country gets heavy snowfall, and simply looks simply exquisite under a carpet of deep powder, whereas the afore mentioned east and south rarely gets even frosty.

Winter is a great time to explore the cities, most especially Kyoto where moments of hushed solitary contemplation are possible in its many gardens and temples and shrines – simply not possible at other times of the year. This is also a wonderful (and romantic) time to head out in to Japan's countryside to soak in an outdoor onsen in a cosy ryokan. There really is nothing better than sitting in a hot spring as the snowflakes land softly on your head and steam rises all around.

The Yuletide holidays are quite magical, as Japan leans in to these Western festivities. It's like stepping in to a Christmas card during the weeks before the big day itself, as the city streets sparkle and the atmosphere crackles. However, notwithstanding all the build up Christmas Day itself can be something of an anti-climax, just another regular working day which comes and goes. But it's a good day to get out of the city to walk around temples and traditional villages in rural Japan is simply enchanting at this time of year. And New Year? Well, it's a major holiday in Japan and celebrated with gusto.

Other 'must-see' only-in-winter highlights include the dancing cranes of Tsurui, up on Hokkaido Island, or the onsen-bathing snow monkeys of Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park. For the ultimate frigid experience, the Sapporo Snow Festival in February is the biggest winter festival in Asia and an awesome experience. 

The truth - winter is our favourite time to be in Japan.  But we're somewhat biased. Our sister company - Different Snow - specialises in ski and snowboard holidays to Japan. With the best powder snow in the world, it falls reliably deep every winter across both Honshu and Hokkaido Islands. No-one knows more about skiing in Japan than us and if you would want to build in several days (or more) on the slopes, or in the backcountry, then you are in our wheelhouse. We feature 12 different ski resorts, from internationally-acclaimed Niseko up on Hokkaido Island to smaller, more characterful Japanese ski resorts such as Nozawa Onsen and Myoko Kogen in the Japanese Alps. We can organise everything; transfers, ski guides, lessons, ski and snowboard equipment hire, lift passes...etc. 

In late March, and then throughout most of April, a simple phenomenon takes place; the cherry blossoms open, and then fall. This is sakura season and it is considered by most to be the most perfect time to visit Japan. The blossoms tend to arrive in the southern extremities of Japan in early to mid-March and then sweep north through Japan, usually arriving in Kyoto and Tokyo for two or three weeks from late March / early April, and then the last sakura fall on Northern Hokkaido Island in early May. The blossoms really peak (mankai) about a week after the buds first open; and the weekend nearest mankao is when the Japanese get the most excited and sakura-viewing parties are at their peak.

But to reduce Spring to only 'sakura' would be to do it a huge disservice - the meticulous gardens, and verdant countryside are at their best, and the mountains are green, and gorgeous. And with optimal temperatures in the city, it's simply a lovely time to be in Japan.

Which leads us on to an over-arching consideration - the crowds. April is the  month everyone wants to come to Japan, for very good reasons admittedly, and so therefore it can get very busy. Kyoto, most especially, can present a challenge because of the sheer number of visitors which impact both the major sights and the available accommodation. By all means come to Japan during the Spring, but this is the season during which you need us more than ever - to turn left, when all others turn right, to find you a bed (or futon) which would otherwise be a scarce commodity, and to hook you up with a guide skilled in revealing a hidden Japan, away from the coach-dependant masses.

As the cherry blossoms disappear and the grounds of parks, pavements and even rivers are carpeted with the fallen petals, then 'Golden Week' is upon us. At the beginning of May, this major Japanese national holiday hikes up accommodation costs and, once again, creates a throng at the major sights. However, later in May and in to June has its rewards; the weather is mild, gardens are in bloom and the mountainsides are lush and green. Once again this is, without doubt, one of the best times to travel.

The weather usually remains lovely all the way through until mid to late-June, when a very wet, yet very short 'rainy season' hits Japan. And this is why we will never send anyone to Japan in late June - it rains and rains and rains solid for about 2 weeks, before the heat rises and summer hits you.

The hottest months of the year come after the late June rains…and therein the most challenging season during which to travel to Japan is upon us. But let us make the case for the summer months, not least because many if us welcome, indeed relish, the heat. We certainly enjoy the lack of crowds. And travelling in the cooling countryside, mountains and National Parks, blooming at their pristine best, can be wonderfully refreshing and restorative. Summer is also the season for festivals and it is out here, in the hill towns and in remote shrines, that many of these celebrations take place. Convinced yet? As far as we are concerned, we honestly believe that summer is a great season in which to explore Japan.

For many Japanese this summer exodus from the city holds true, though they can only leave for short periods at a time only (work / life balance is rarely a 'thing' in Japan). For a short break during the school holidays many choose to return to their home towns, adding a vibrancy and energy to rural life not always seen at other times of the year. 

However, spending time in the mega-cities is a key part of any Japan adventure so we need to adapt and come up with innovative strategies to keep cool in the summer (though one must reluctantly acknowledge that blanket coverage by effective, and blissful, air-con is a Godsend). We try take the pace out of the sticky days in the urban jungle, perhaps simply by building in time to to visit one of the many wonderful 'pop up' beer gardens on the roofs of departments stores.

O-Bon in mid August is a week to avoid, because it is one of Japan's three major national holidays (alongside New Year & Golden Week). There is a lot of domestic travel and, therefore, increased accommodation rates or, more critically, simply 'no room at the inn'.